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Below is an article from The Independent, contributed to by
Bernard Tarmey, thefloorstore.co.uk director.
Do you dare to bare?
Wooden floorboards not only look beautiful in the home, they're also long-lasting, easy to look after and allergen-free.
But is it possible to lay them yourself? And will the latest ones survive an onslaught of stiletto heels?
By Hester Lacey
05 March 2003
Wood flooring has natural character. Wood combines warmth and individuality, and a wooden floor is more than simply a surface to walk on; it's a feature in its own right, in a sense that is hard to match with carpets or vinyl. Wood brings nature from outdoors to indoors, according to Steve Maltby of the Danish wooden floor company, Junckers. "The colours, grain patterns, knots, whorls, all mean your eye is drawn to it. Most surfaces these days are pretty neutral – with a wooden floor you get a wow factor that isn't there with a beige carpet."
There is a bewildering variety of wooden flooring on offer, but the basic types of hardwood floor are block, strip and mosaic. Block is the most expensive, mosaic panels are the cheapest. Richard Wollerton, director of the Contract Flooring Association, says that parquet is a much-abused description, "so it's a term we try to avoid".
Where can you put a wooden floor? Water is the main enemy. "The real no-no is a bathroom," Steve Maltby says. "There is too much humidity; the wood will swell and blister." Utility rooms are borderline, as is a kitchen with a washing machine in it. "Leaks are a major problem for all floor coverings other than ceramic tiles. When it comes to kitchens, minor splashes from washing up won't affect the floor; nor will any other spillage that you deal with immediately."
Junckers was founded by a young Danish forester, Flemming Juncker, in 1931. Long before environmental awareness had become trendy, Juncker realised that large quantities of small logs were being wasted, and he developed new techniques to make them into flooring. When he died last year, he had seen his company's products become sought-after worldwide.
Wood type is not the only key to quality, though, says Maltby. "The machining and sealing are the most important things to look at when you're buying a floor. If the machine tolerances are no good, the finished floor will be gappy and lippy. And look for a high quality of finish. That's what you see and what you will be walking on."
If you wear stiletto heels, you'd be well advised to slip them off before crossing your wooden floor. But any floor covering other than granite will suffer from the effects of stilettos. And wood, once it's down, is both hard-wearing and low maintenance. Bernard Tarmey is director of the Birmingham-based Wooden Flooring Sales company, and his family have been in the timber trade since 1880. "Wood is tough. Maple, for example, is one of the most durable. It's used on sports floors in schools. It lasts a minimum of 60 years, and up to 150 years."
Modern finishes will make wooden floors last even longer, Tarmey says. "There are new ceramic coatings being made in Austria and Germany that don't look any different to the usual finishes, but are so damn hard it's impossible to mark them." Oil-impregnated wood floors are highly water-resistant, and a new technique combines oil treatment and ceramic coatings for flooring that's virtually indestructible.
When it comes to maintenance, less is more. The days of a wax polish once a week are long gone. On a well-sealed floor, virtually all that's needed is dust control – vacuuming or wiping over with a mop will do the job in minutes. A coat of polish might be needed once a year, or even less.
Maltby says the lowest realistic budget for a solid wooden floor, supplied and fitted, is £55-£65 per square metre. Tarmey suggests around £70. The top end of the range, at £350, are Versailles panels, he says: "Built like a tank, three to four inches thick, costs an arm and a leg but will last 500 years." You can lay your own wooden floor; but careful preparation is vital. You'll need to measure the moisture levels of the sub-floor, and put down a damp-proof membrane if necessary. Allowing enough space for expansion around the room perimeter, radiator pipes and door frames is another factor that can trip the amateur. Woodblocks are best left to professional fitters. For those working to a tighter budgets, there is pre-finished laminate flooring, made of hardwood backed up with a softwood centre. While laminates don't have the opulence of solid wood, they are expand and contract less.
The cheapest option of all is to have your existing floorboards sanded or to hire a sander and do it yourself. All boards must be securely nailed down before you start. Beware of water pipes, says Richard Wollerton of the Contract Flooring Association; they should be placed so a nail won't reach them, but often they are not.
Wollerton recommends sanding three times at least, using heavy, medium, then fine sandpaper, working with the grain of the wood. You'll need no less than three coats of sealer, preferably four. "Approach the project gingerly; try a small piece first, one that will be hidden by furniture. It's very easy to ruin a good floor by DIY sanding." But it can certainly be worth the effort, he adds. "Good boards can look magnificent."
The Contract Flooring Association: 0115 941 1126, www.cfa.org.uk
Junckers: 01376 534700, www.junckers.co.uk
Wooden Flooring Sales: 0870 879 5000, www.thefloorstore.co.uk
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sales@thefloorstore.co.uk
Birmingham Hardwood Flooring specialise in wooden floors, including
all hardwood flooring. We offer a complete range including:- parquet,
woodblock, strip, reclaimed timber, bamboo, oak, beech, pine, herringbone,
blocks, end grain. As well as supply, we also have a nationwide fitting
service for commercial, industrial and domestic users. Other services
available include floor restoration:- sanding, sealing and refinishing.
Additional products include decorative radiator covers - see link above.
© 2003 Thefloorstore
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